The GOTS label: a guiding principle for more responsible textiles

A Holistic Approach to Textiles

Unlike other labels focused solely on fiber cultivation, GOTS oversees the entire processing chain: spinning, dyeing, weaving, garment making, and distribution. It requires fibers to come from certified organic farming and sets strict rules regarding:

• approved chemical substances,
• water and waste management,
• working conditions and traceability.

Controlled Chemistry

GOTS bans the most hazardous substances for health and the environment: heavy metals, formaldehyde, APEO surfactants, synthetic pesticides, PFAS, nanoparticles, and carcinogenic dyes.

Workshops must:

• have wastewater treatment systems in place;
• perform regular analyses including parameters such as AOX¹ and COD²;
• use biodegradable dyes;
• and set water consumption reduction targets.

Water, Waste, and Packaging Management

Certified entities must implement:

• mandatory wastewater treatment before discharge;
• a waste management and reduction policy;
• the use of eco-friendly packaging: recycled or FSC/PEFC-certified paper and cardboard, compostable bioplastics, and a ban on single-use virgin plastic hangers.

Social Guarantees

The social criteria are based on the core ILO conventions³ and the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. They include:

• prohibition of forced labor and child labor;
• freedom of association and the right to collective bargaining;
• non-discrimination;
• fair wages and reasonable working hours;
• occupational health and safety;
• job stability and a minimum maternity leave of 14 weeks.

The version 7.0 introduces a due diligence approach: each company must assess its social and environmental risks and demonstrate the measures taken to prevent or remedy them.

Traceability and Transparency

Each certified operator receives a Scope Certificate defining its area of activity. Goods exchanges are monitored through Transaction Certificates ensuring compliance continuity from yarn to finished garment.

GOTS has introduced digital tools to enhance transparency:

• the Global Trace-Base (GTB) to track raw material origins,
• the Farm-Gin Registry to collect data on raw organic cotton.

Companies are subject to annual audits and unannounced inspections carried out by 19 independent bodies (including Ecocert in France, Soil Association in the UK, Control Union in the Netherlands, ICEA in Italy, etc.).

Quality Requirements

GOTS-certified products must pass technical tests guaranteeing their durability and safety:

• resistance to rubbing, perspiration, light, and washing;
• limited dimensional change after washing;
• absence of harmful substances (especially for children’s clothing).

Care labels must recommend eco-friendly washing practices.

Strengths of the Label

• A holistic vision: GOTS covers the entire value chain, from field to label.
• Clear and transparent thresholds: 70% or 95% organic fibers, limiting greenwashing.
• A genuine social commitment: inclusion of ILO conventions and mandatory due diligence.
• Certified traceability: transaction certificates and regular audits.
• Global reach: over 15,000 certified sites in 87 countries as of 2024.

Limitations of the Label

• Upstream fraud risk: some cases of fake certificates, especially for Indian cotton, despite stricter controls.
• Limited scope: GOTS does not measure carbon footprint or product longevity.
• Not a fair-trade label: it does not provide a fair-trade premium or guarantee a living wage.
• Administrative burden: heavy documentation requirements for small structures.
• Limited to natural fibers: mainly applies to cotton, linen, hemp, wool; only small proportions of recycled synthetic fibers are allowed.

Summary

The Global Organic Textile Standard represents one of the most comprehensive approaches to sustainable textiles today. It links soil to fabric, ensuring consistent respect for the environment, workers, and consumers.

While it does not eliminate the complexity of global supply chains or potential abuses, GOTS remains the most credible and recognized certification in the sector. Its rigor and transparency make it a key reference for brands and consumers seeking ethical and responsible fashion.