Wool: the journey of a thousand-year-old fibre, from animal to knitwear

1. Origins: wool on the animal

Wool is a keratinized fiber¹ that grows continuously on sheep. Its quality depends on the breed, climate, diet, and health of the animal. Fineness, measured in microns, defines the final use: fine wools such as merino offer softness and elasticity, while coarser wools, with a rustic feel, provide robustness and structure.

Each fleece tells the story of an environment. A finely crimped Australian merino fleece has nothing in common with a long, lustrous fiber from Lincoln sheep in Northern Europe. Behind these differences lie as many farming cultures, soils, climates, and pastoral traditions.

2. The shearing ritual: first stage of transformation

Each year, wool is harvested during shearing. This ancient act, still largely performed by hand, serves both the comfort of the animal and the recovery of the fiber. The fleece falls in a single piece, almost sculptural, and a rigorous sorting process begins.

Shearing can be a sensitive stage. In responsible farms, shearers are trained to handle the animal gently, limit injuries, and reduce stress. This care is an integral part of the ethical value of wool.

3. From sorting to yarn: a sequence of transformations

Once removed from the sheep, the fleece is sorted, graded, and then transformed:

Washing

Raw wool contains lanolin², dust, and plant matter. Industrial washing cleans the fiber and separates the lanolin, prized in cosmetics. It is a water-intensive step, whose environmental impact depends greatly on wastewater management.

Carding and combing

Next comes carding, which detangles and aerates the fiber. Two paths then open:

• Carded wool, loftier, ideal for warm knits and felts.
• Combed wool, thoroughly aligned and freed of short fibers, used for fine, regular, and resistant yarns for suits or lightweight knits.

Spinning and dyeing

The sliver becomes yarn through drafting and twisting. The fiber can be dyed at different stages: before spinning, on the yarn, or on the finished fabric. These process choices influence ecological impact, particularly in water and energy consumption.

Finally, the knit or fabric is ready for garment making. Combed wool will produce a fluid suit; carded wool will provide the texture of a coat or a thick sweater.

4. Major wool families

Merino: fineness and softness

With fineness dropping below 17 microns, merino is the star of technical garments. It regulates temperature perfectly, absorbs moisture without feeling wet, and remains naturally antibacterial.

Crossbred wools³ and longwools

These intermediate or long, shiny, strong fibers are highly appreciated for coats, carpets, and home textiles.

Lambswool

The first shearing of a lamb yields a soft, light, and very regular fiber, highly prized for high-end knitwear.

Other wool-bearing fibers

Cashmere, mohair, alpaca, yak, camel… these fibers, cousins of wool, enrich the tactile and technical palette of natural textiles.

5. A global geography

Wool production draws a highly uneven world map. Australia and New Zealand dominate the merino market. China is both a major producer of raw wool and the principal hub for washing, spinning, and processing. The United Kingdom, Turkey, Uruguay, Argentina, and South Africa bring their own fiber characteristics.

Wool-producing regions shape unique pastoral cultures, where wool is both an agricultural product and a historical heritage.

6. Environmental challenges

Wool is a natural, recyclable, and biodegradable fiber. But its overall impact is not neutral.

Farming

Most of wool’s carbon footprint comes from the sheep itself: methane from digestion, land use, and risks of overgrazing. Rational pasture management is essential to preserve soils and biodiversity.

Processing

Washing, dyeing, and finishing are energy-intensive stages. Modern facilities invest in wastewater filtration, heat recovery, and less toxic dyes.

End of life

Wool is one of the few textile fibers that is truly biodegradable. It can also be recycled mechanically, particularly in specialized regions such as Prato in Italy, where recycled wool fabrics have a very low carbon footprint.

7. Ethics and animal welfare

Wool raises essential questions about how animals are treated.

Mulesing

Practiced in certain regions of Australia on merino sheep, mulesing involves removing a strip of skin to prevent fly infestation. Long tolerated, this practice is now heavily criticized for its cruelty. More and more brands commit to using only mulesing-free wool.

Respectful shearing

Ethical shearing requires precise gestures, solid training, and fair pay for seasonal shearers. Animal welfare is becoming as much a commercial criterion as a moral one.

8. Certifications and trusted labels

RWS – Responsible Wool Standard

The most widespread standard. It covers:

• animal welfare,
• protection of pastures,
• social guarantees for workers,
• full traceability from flock to yarn.

ZQ Merino

A highly demanding New Zealand label guaranteeing high-quality, traceable, mulesing-free wool produced with respect for the environment and farmers.

Organic wool (GOTS)

Includes agricultural requirements (no pesticides, sustainable land management) and industrial ones (controlled chemistry, working conditions).

These certifications are becoming essential for brands wishing to offer truly responsible wool.

9. Toward more sustainable wool

On farms

• selection of resistant breeds,
• improved feeding to reduce methane,
• smart pasture management.

In industry

• efficient water treatment,
• decarbonized energy,
• widespread development of recycled wool.

In brands

• strict specifications: certifications, traceability, social conditions,
• creation of repairable, durable, timeless garments.

From consumers

• gentle care to extend lifespan,
• preference for recycled, second-hand, robust pieces,
• choice of reliable labels.

Conclusion: wool, a living fiber

Wool is not just a material. It is the result of an intimate link between the animal and the human, between nature and technique. It is a renewable but demanding resource, requiring know-how, respect, and responsible management.

In a textile world dominated by synthetics, wool offers a noble alternative—provided it is produced with ethics, transparency, and environmental awareness. From fleece to knit, it embodies a living craft, rooted in landscapes and oriented toward the future.